Life’s simple pleasures (i.e. day 9)

Today we set out for a good meal, preferably local, preferably seafood.  We weighed our options between some of the reputable lobster restaurants in the downtown core against a small set of shops and restaurants known as the Hydrostone Market. The Hydrostone District is a large part of Halifax history as it is part of the rebuilt area of the Halifax explosion in 1917.  This tipped the scale for us and we were not disappointed. Of the several restaurants and pastry shops to choose from we decided on Epicurious Morsels which was definitely a treat.  In house smoke salmon was one of their specialties and it really was delish! After being absolutely stuffed with variations of salmon and some good desserts we just walked around and enjoyed the old neighbourhood.

Photo courtesy of Nadine

After lunch it was time to set off again. To this point we had been unsure about our next destination, we felt like she should be going south but also that we could not miss the beauty we had heard so much about in the north at Cape Breton. So we compromised and decided we would take a drive to Peggy’s Cove (south) and then head North.  So we said goodbye to our lovely hostess and departed Halifax around 4 or 5 pm for the 40 minute drive to the infamous Peggy’s Cove, to see what it was all about – the drive up had some great changing scenery.

We arrived at Peggy’s cove with good timing as the sun was starting to set, making for some amazing pictures!

One of the really noticeable things about Peggys cove is that it is just a regular little community with a few businesses but surprisingly nothing really commercial. Less than 50 people live there and likely make their living either as a fisherman, an artist, a teacher, a B&B owner or by working at the local restaurant. You can’t really go wrong though as this place was quite special. One of the other little tidbits we noticed was the popularity of bus tours, which we came to realize would not be something that would interest us. You are confined to a schedule kept by the company and this is not flexible – this can be a problem as they just basically drop you off at a place and leave you for X number of hours. What if it is completely boring to you? Or what if you don’t want to leave just yet?  Or what if you don’t want to eat at the (only) overpriced restaurant (seriously, $18 dollars for fish and chips!?!). Just not as appealing as being able to come and go as you please. If we had taken a bus tour, and left when the last bus boarded, we would have missed a very good finish to a spectacular sunset.

By the time we were done, hunger had really set in but we decided to pass on the local restaurant at Peggy’s Cove. Not just for the fact that it was insanely pricey but because the server showed a huge lack of enthusiasm about the quality of 50% of the dishes on the menu. Instead, started to head back and found a little place still open. We were the only two in the restaurant, which can be worrying sometimes but the fish and chips was really very good and very fresh. Setting us up nicely for our drive north.

All in all, the day was great – we really just enjoyed life’s simple pleasures with some good food, good people and good scenery.


View Larger Map

A: Halifax, Nova Scotia
B: Peggy’s cove, Nova Scotia
C: Truro, Nova Scotia

Today’s track – about 200 kms
Tomorrow’s plan – Cape Breton Island & the Cabot trail